no donbrew, it helps, but when i just replaced practically all the notorious stuff that goes bad and makes noises (so to speak) and i am still getting metal slapping sounds, i am not sure where to go next. and now this shake in the gas pedal after i did all this..... just getting to me ya know!

 

For the shake re torque the LCA bushing bolts, 78 ft lbs then 180 degrees

 

steering intermediate shaft failure - - VERY COMMON ON GM cars

 

My half shaft is/went bad because I don't have a LSD and with my tune one shaft can't take it, same goes for the clutch.

 

still shaking this down, everything looks to be torqued down good
one thing i noticed is i get the cluck/metal to metal sound when the right front wheel drops down, like hitting a hole in the road, i notice it then more than anything. could that be associated with the struts?

 

BUT, did you got through the diagnostic steps outlined in the TSB??????

Noise on one side in a pothole could be: Strut, strut bearing, hub, sway bar bushing, sway bar link, LCA bushing, ball joint, tie rod ends, loose bumper cover, loose fender, loose fender liner, any other loose bolt on that side of the car, motor mount, transmission mounts, CV joints, intermediate shaft, probably more.

BTW; you did use SS specific ball joints/LCAs right, it was an interference fit getting the ball joint stud into the knuckle? The stud on the SS ball joint is larger, so a LS/LT LCA will fit and you can torque it down but you will be torquing to fail and the stud can still be rattling around in the hole.

 

Intermediate shaft, it should be able to slide , and the universal joints should be tight with no play in them, there is one under the dash and one on the engine side of the fire wall under the brake booster.
The clunk could be swaybar end links wrong length allowing the swaybar to contact the LCA.
It could be the spring binding.
It could be the LCA rear bushing bolt not correctly torqued.
It could be the swaybar bushings incorrect size, the SS should be a 23 mm bar, the LS/LT is 25 mm.
It could be loose wheel lug nuts, they should be torqued to 100 lbs, then re torqued after a ten mile drive.
Seems tight or is properly torqued are two very different things! I can hit my lug nuts with my air impact and they will only be torqued to 90 lbs, but seem tight!
I also suggest checking the torque on the strut shaft nuts, I've had factory assembled nuts only finger tight maybe a 1/2 thread on the assembly line missed the torque, so double check and never assume it's tight.

 

Yep, just 3 weeks ago I rotated my tires and personally torqued them to 100 lb-ft. 2 days later lugs started flying off (not the nuts). Replaced all of the lugs & nuts on that wheel, torqued to 100 lb-ft checked after 150 miles; all of them were loose!

That has something to do with that particular after market wheel and the fact it was rotated from RR to LF. Remember old Chrysler left hand threads on the left?

 

Yes, I remember, and Buicks with no studs but instead wheel bolts, they were a bit of a pain the line up and start to thread in!
The lugs breaking off could have been from the hub company saving a few cents on cheap grade steel or they could have been over torqued at one time at the tire shop.
The lug nuts loosening up is normal from heat cycles and frost joints and potholes, some people call me an overly cautious nut but my nuts are torqued correctly !

 

Somebody recently posted about a bushing needed on the Strut mount with KYB struts.

This is a link:https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...bushing-54445/