Help with P0017 P0016.
Boost gauge on the A pillar was in 2009 only.
Just to clarify.
Pillar Boost gauge was on the 08, 09 that Did Not have the factory RPD unit. (RPD wasn't available until 09 I believe)
If the SS came with the RPD unit new, then the pillar gauge was deleted at the factory.
ALL 2010's came with the RPD, so none of those would have the pillar gauge.
Pillar Boost gauge was on the 08, 09 that Did Not have the factory RPD unit. (RPD wasn't available until 09 I believe)
If the SS came with the RPD unit new, then the pillar gauge was deleted at the factory.
ALL 2010's came with the RPD, so none of those would have the pillar gauge.
Just to clarify.
Pillar Boost gauge was on the 08, 09 that Did Not have the factory RPD unit. (RPD wasn't available until 09 I believe)
If the SS came with the RPD unit new, then the pillar gauge was deleted at the factory.
ALL 2010's came with the RPD, so none of those would have the pillar gauge.
Pillar Boost gauge was on the 08, 09 that Did Not have the factory RPD unit. (RPD wasn't available until 09 I believe)
If the SS came with the RPD unit new, then the pillar gauge was deleted at the factory.
ALL 2010's came with the RPD, so none of those would have the pillar gauge.
Did you read the post on the Cobalt forum to by pass the RPD ?
As I stated before, I haven't heard of anyone bypassing it on the HHR. Not saying it hasn't been done, just I haven't heard of it.
Update. The mechanic changed out the actuators and didn't work. Finally he noticed that the guides was broken. After I told him about this forum like 5 times and he was positive it wasn't because the chain was still lined up with the markers. Thanks you guys.
Now when I picked up the car. He told me that the turbo had some play and didn't look good. I told him the turbo was fine bringing it in. He said he drove it with no codes but the turbo has a loud noise. He said it might go away after a few miles. I drove it to get some gas and notice the p106 came on. That noise sounded like something was stuck in the turbo. To turbo power at all. Then a loud pop. No more turbo boost. Nothing. Took it back and he said the code was MAP sensor. I changed the factory to a GM stage 2 MAP sensor just last year. Cant go bad that soon?. Could it? Now he says the turbo is bad and to change it out? I don't know if he's doing the old break something so they keep coming back...but im not sure. I want to give him the benefit of the doubt because he's a family mechanic for years with many cars fixed and done. Do you guys know how to test the turbo if its bad?
Now when I picked up the car. He told me that the turbo had some play and didn't look good. I told him the turbo was fine bringing it in. He said he drove it with no codes but the turbo has a loud noise. He said it might go away after a few miles. I drove it to get some gas and notice the p106 came on. That noise sounded like something was stuck in the turbo. To turbo power at all. Then a loud pop. No more turbo boost. Nothing. Took it back and he said the code was MAP sensor. I changed the factory to a GM stage 2 MAP sensor just last year. Cant go bad that soon?. Could it? Now he says the turbo is bad and to change it out? I don't know if he's doing the old break something so they keep coming back...but im not sure. I want to give him the benefit of the doubt because he's a family mechanic for years with many cars fixed and done. Do you guys know how to test the turbo if its bad?
There are 2 TMAP sensors. One on the intake manifold, 1 in the lower charge pipe. Did you only change 1? Has the ECM been tuned? That would be the only reason to upgrade the TMAP sensors.
The TMAP sensor in the lower charge pipe has caused many of these turbocharged cars to have problems. Not the sensor itself, but the way they were spliced in. Many were just crimped, they need to be cleaned up and soldered.
I bought the sensors with the plug and play adapters. If yours is spliced, that may be the problem.
Another problem with that same sensor is that it contacts the AC compressor when the engine moves, damaging the connector. There are a couple of ways to remedy this. One way is to shim out the intercooler, providing more space between the sensor and the compressor. I did it another way, I'll find the thread and link it here.
EDIT: I found it https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...ive-way-62943/
The TMAP sensor in the lower charge pipe has caused many of these turbocharged cars to have problems. Not the sensor itself, but the way they were spliced in. Many were just crimped, they need to be cleaned up and soldered.
I bought the sensors with the plug and play adapters. If yours is spliced, that may be the problem.
Another problem with that same sensor is that it contacts the AC compressor when the engine moves, damaging the connector. There are a couple of ways to remedy this. One way is to shim out the intercooler, providing more space between the sensor and the compressor. I did it another way, I'll find the thread and link it here.
EDIT: I found it https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...ive-way-62943/
There are 2 TMAP sensors. One on the intake manifold, 1 in the lower charge pipe. Did you only change 1? Has the ECM been tuned? That would be the only reason to upgrade the TMAP sensors.
The TMAP sensor in the lower charge pipe has caused many of these turbocharged cars to have problems. Not the sensor itself, but the way they were spliced in. Many were just crimped, they need to be cleaned up and soldered.
I bought the sensors with the plug and play adapters. If yours is spliced, that may be the problem.
Another problem with that same sensor is that it contacts the AC compressor when the engine moves, damaging the connector. There are a couple of ways to remedy this. One way is to shim out the intercooler, providing more space between the sensor and the compressor. I did it another way, I'll find the thread and link it here.
The TMAP sensor in the lower charge pipe has caused many of these turbocharged cars to have problems. Not the sensor itself, but the way they were spliced in. Many were just crimped, they need to be cleaned up and soldered.
I bought the sensors with the plug and play adapters. If yours is spliced, that may be the problem.
Another problem with that same sensor is that it contacts the AC compressor when the engine moves, damaging the connector. There are a couple of ways to remedy this. One way is to shim out the intercooler, providing more space between the sensor and the compressor. I did it another way, I'll find the thread and link it here.
These are the ones I installed.


