A Few Audio Questions
#1
A Few Audio Questions
I just bought some new kicker door speakers and have a few questions to ask before they arrive.
1. Should I use the stock speaker wire or would it be better to run new wiring?
2. I only bought front door speakers so should I eventually spend the extra money and buy back ones too or should I just unplug the back speakers? (In my old car I couldn't really tell that the back speakers weren't going)
3. Is it difficult to wire an amp (for my sub) in the HHR because it was very difficult in the Tahoe I used to drive? (Any trouble parts I could learn before I set up my amp would be nice.)
Thanks in advance, from what I've seen everyone on here is very helpful so I'm sure I will get my questions answered.
1. Should I use the stock speaker wire or would it be better to run new wiring?
2. I only bought front door speakers so should I eventually spend the extra money and buy back ones too or should I just unplug the back speakers? (In my old car I couldn't really tell that the back speakers weren't going)
3. Is it difficult to wire an amp (for my sub) in the HHR because it was very difficult in the Tahoe I used to drive? (Any trouble parts I could learn before I set up my amp would be nice.)
Thanks in advance, from what I've seen everyone on here is very helpful so I'm sure I will get my questions answered.
#2
the original wiring should be fine for just swapping door speakers.
Dont worry about rears, if your passengers complain ask them to chip in some cash.
For the sub, its likely the same kind of job as the tahoe except the battery connections are in the rear. So if you locate the amp back there the power wires are quite short. Assuming you dont have the factory sub, you would then have to run signal wires from the head unit all the way back.
Dont worry about rears, if your passengers complain ask them to chip in some cash.
For the sub, its likely the same kind of job as the tahoe except the battery connections are in the rear. So if you locate the amp back there the power wires are quite short. Assuming you dont have the factory sub, you would then have to run signal wires from the head unit all the way back.
#3
I switched all the speakers when I put the alpine in used the stock wires, put coaxial in back and component in front, kept the factory sub and amp. Sounds 200 % better. Yes to Finnish I need a amp and sub in back. I was told that the signal to the sub amp can be stolen from a rear speaker. For normal listening range mine sounds great, clean, with full bass, and a little bump. Sound is in the ear of the listener.
#5
Could use a little more info on your setup but this is a good start:
I just bought some new kicker door speakers and have a few questions to ask before they arrive.
1. Should I use the stock speaker wire or would it be better to run new wiring?
If you are going to amp them it wouldn't hurt.
2. I only bought front door speakers so should I eventually spend the extra money and buy back ones too or should I just unplug the back speakers? (In my old car I couldn't really tell that the back speakers weren't going)
Yes
3. Is it difficult to wire an amp (for my sub) in the HHR because it was very difficult in the Tahoe I used to drive? (Any trouble parts I could learn before I set up my amp would be nice.)
The Tahoe may have been tricky if it had Bose. Are you keeping the factory head unit? Installing an amp shouldn't be hard at all.
Thanks in advance, from what I've seen everyone on here is very helpful so I'm sure I will get my questions answered.
1. Should I use the stock speaker wire or would it be better to run new wiring?
If you are going to amp them it wouldn't hurt.
2. I only bought front door speakers so should I eventually spend the extra money and buy back ones too or should I just unplug the back speakers? (In my old car I couldn't really tell that the back speakers weren't going)
Yes
3. Is it difficult to wire an amp (for my sub) in the HHR because it was very difficult in the Tahoe I used to drive? (Any trouble parts I could learn before I set up my amp would be nice.)
The Tahoe may have been tricky if it had Bose. Are you keeping the factory head unit? Installing an amp shouldn't be hard at all.
Thanks in advance, from what I've seen everyone on here is very helpful so I'm sure I will get my questions answered.
#6
The Tahoe is a 96 and had just stock everything until I got a new head unit and subs. The tricky part was getting the wiring around objects between the head unit unit and the glove box. I do plan on getting a new head unit soon just trying to find one that I want. I'm not planning on using an amp for the speakers just yet but eventually I will.
#7
The Tahoe is a 96 and had just stock everything until I got a new head unit and subs. The tricky part was getting the wiring around objects between the head unit unit and the glove box. I do plan on getting a new head unit soon just trying to find one that I want. I'm not planning on using an amp for the speakers just yet but eventually I will.
#8
1. Should I use the stock speaker wire or would it be better to run new wiring?
if you are not amping the speaker it is pointless to run new wires, if you do run new wires you will just have to do it again if you decide to amp yeilding a waste of wire
2. I only bought front door speakers so should I eventually spend the extra money and buy back ones too or should I just unplug the back speakers? (In my old car I couldn't really tell that the back speakers weren't going)
Yes upgrade all the speakers.
3. Is it difficult to wire an amp (for my sub) in the HHR because it was very difficult in the Tahoe I used to drive? (Any trouble parts I could learn before I set up my amp would be nice.)
No, it is not difficult to wire amps in any vehicle. you must take the path of least resisitance. in order for that to happen dont be afraid to pull panels up and look around. some instances may require power wire under the vehicle but it is all in how much effort you put in.
if you are not amping the speaker it is pointless to run new wires, if you do run new wires you will just have to do it again if you decide to amp yeilding a waste of wire
2. I only bought front door speakers so should I eventually spend the extra money and buy back ones too or should I just unplug the back speakers? (In my old car I couldn't really tell that the back speakers weren't going)
Yes upgrade all the speakers.
3. Is it difficult to wire an amp (for my sub) in the HHR because it was very difficult in the Tahoe I used to drive? (Any trouble parts I could learn before I set up my amp would be nice.)
No, it is not difficult to wire amps in any vehicle. you must take the path of least resisitance. in order for that to happen dont be afraid to pull panels up and look around. some instances may require power wire under the vehicle but it is all in how much effort you put in.
#9
I had a system in my old 626 (pioneer comp tweeters, doors, and rears, and Class D 1200 watt rms amp, and a set of dual 12in subs in a lighted blue LED box), that I did myself, and yes it sounded so much better than the HHR pioneer, but after seeing how much weight I added with my subs and such, I think for now, it sound good. But if your doing door speakers, yes, rerun better wire. Nothings worse than crappy old underguaged wire, plus incase u add an amp for your doors, you already know how all the wires run. :) My best idea for a sub, is a powered sub. Cars too small for anything bigger than 10in or 500w peak. if u go bigger, youll need a ricer badge on yer rear window. JS
#10
I had a system in my old 626 (pioneer comp tweeters, doors, and rears, and Class D 1200 watt rms amp, and a set of dual 12in subs in a lighted blue LED box), that I did myself, and yes it sounded so much better than the HHR pioneer, but after seeing how much weight I added with my subs and such, I think for now, it sound good. But if your doing door speakers, yes, rerun better wire. Nothings worse than crappy old underguaged wire, plus incase u add an amp for your doors, you already know how all the wires run. :) My best idea for a sub, is a powered sub. Cars too small for anything bigger than 10in or 500w peak. if u go bigger, youll need a ricer badge on yer rear window. JS
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