The LCA rear bolts can break the cage nut loose.

 

I can almost guarantee the rear bushing is worn out, unwise to try to replace only ball joint. They seem to only be good for about 70,000 miles.
Sometimes wedging something against the nut is good enough other times cutting the bolt and replacing the nut and bolt is necessary.

 

The rear bushing is 3 years old. New LCA's were installed 20,000 miles ago on both sides. The LCA's ball joints are not greaseable, the rubber boot failed and so did drivers side ball joint. Why would you think the bushing is bad? Are these replacement LCA's junk? Just driving it up to the house last evening, I heard clunking, so that bolt needs to be replaced. If I had a car lift, I'd probably fix it myself. Watched a you tube vid on bolt replacement. Not a huge job but a lift would make it much easier. And maybe a torch. .

 

No torch! Just placement of wrench to wedge the cage nut from spinning.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...mission-62353/

 

I use a ball joint press kit, I bought at HF .
For the first time I changed the bushings, I used an old front brake rotor for the anvil, and a BFH to drive the bushing flat , then used a cold chisel to collapse the metal ring in on the crapped out rubber.

 

I would think they are bad from personal experience. But, please note the "almost" qualifier in my post; that means not positively for sure.
Ball joints usually last a lot longer than the rubber bushings. I personally don't give a poop about grease zerks; for that matter there is a tool made for the purpose, if you care about greasing them. Not many MODERN ball joints come with zerks.

 

Thanks old blue, from the video on you tube, the guy made some rectangular piece and drilled and tapped it as a caged nut replacement. I didnt watch the whole thing, just bits and pieces. Is there a repair kit available for these things? If so, I'll replace both side and use anti seize on them.
Donbrew, thanks for that. And I agree, not many vehicles have grease fittings anymore. Im' disappointed in the replacement LCA's. the OEM's lasted 185k, the new ones about 10% of that. ( ball joint/ rubber protector only at this point) I live in the salt belt, Michigan. So if the rubber protector goes, the ball joint wont last very long. Today I'll get some PB blaster sprayed into the cage nut area and see whats what. If it isnt that difficult, maybe I'll tackle it myself. I find it odd that the Moog problem solver LCA ball joints are non greaseable but the Moog replacement ball joint does. My 1978 Pontiac Trans Am has 8 or 9 zerks. maybe more. The 2011 HHR now has 1. lol.

 

Once I got into the cage nut area, straightened the cage, I could tighten it up, on the drivers side.
For future readers, a hint…. Do Not Use an impact gun to loosen or tighten the rear LCA bolts, that can mess up the cage. Use lotsa PB Blaster and a long breaker bar with a cheater pipe or the handle from your floor jack. My 1.5 ton HF jack handle works great

 

The bolt is available from GM part number is in the "elusive part number" thread. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...rt-numbers-68/
Lower Control Arm rear bolt ALL HHRs GM P/N 11589009
The nut is available I think fastsuv has the p/n.

 

Steels could make it easier to move the front wheels forward about an inch.I could piggyback the old lower strut attachment with the new one. Section make spacers bolt together and weld. I can just section the steel control arms, weld and gusset. I could probably get 235 75's on.