Not sure what part of OH you're in. Next time I'll run down and help ya! I'm in parma, near Cleveland. Your chain probably didn't jump to far. If you had a valve collision you will definitely hear it. The 07 2.2 I picked up jump time and bent 3 valves. Currently finishing a complete rebuild "freshening up" on it.

 

well just an update, got it all fixed and back together, well the local shop got it back together i should say. I can do a lot of work myself but this one had me a little scared to dig into. they had it together and it was throwing a p0016 code, found out they were off by a tooth on the chain, adjusted it, put it back together and all is good!
to conclude.... pull the valve cover before doing this swap and make sure nothing moves! the worst part, it was already the updated part, so $500 later to fix a mistake on my part! my significant other is still not happy with me on this trust me!!
ALSO i now have a perfectly good tensioner for sale if some one needs it! $20.00 and its yours. i never had it replaced, just put the old one back in since it was good!

 

Note that it is not enough to just remove the valve cover to be sure that timing does not slip. This is because you cannot see or access the crankshaft end of the timing chain to observe or scribe a mark as a reference. You have to remove the front cover too. The crankshaft is where timing is most likely to slip in this procedure.

Also, the coloured links will all be offset from their initial positions, so you cannot use them to check timing in the same way that you would if you were putting the chain on from scratch. The links only line up with all the timing marks every several dozens (100's?) of revolutions. Other times there is an offset that you must take into account. See my description on page 10 of this thread. In any case, without also removing the engine front cover you cannot see the timing mark on the crankshaft or how it lines up with links on the chain.

 

I'm a little confused.
Some members here have said pull the old one, put in the new one, go for pizza.
Others have said pull the covers, mark the chains, rotate the engine, don't take chances....
I'm tempted to do this myself, as many have, because I really like doing things for myself while I can. And we really like the little car
Edit:
I should add that I have the tools, garage, time and mechanical experience. The engines I'm used to are a lot larger...

 

I have replaced a few of them. I remove the valve cover so I can release the new tensioner after it is installed.

The new tensioner is installed in a retracted position and must be released so it can do its job.

Some people have just removed the old one and installed the new one with out releasing the tensioner and have gotten lucky the starting of the engine released the tensioner before the chain jumped out of time.

Some have not been so lucky and the chain jumped before the tensioner released. Those guys had to remove the chain and reinstall or replace.

It's your call and your risk.

 

perhaps, it will be useful. Timing Chain Service Procedures GM 2.2L L61 Ecotec, Camshaft Sprocket
In any case, I wish you good luck.

 

That is the procedure for the "original design" tensioner. All that re seating just confuses the issue.

 

Thanks guys. I'll post something when I change it.

 

I meant the procedure that geg posted. I think you should "pop" the new one in either circumstance.

i.e. re seating the 2 halves of the old tensioner. That is an unnecessary step with a new tensioner.

 

Looking for some tips here. I am replacing my motor for the third time and going to replace the tensioner before I drop the motor in this time. The donor motor is straight out of another 2006 HHR with 94,000 miles on it. I figure replacing the tensioner now should help this motor last another 100k. My first motor gave up after 206,000 miles and the last one only went 160,000 (80,000 by me). So I do a lot of driving. After reading the posts here it seems like the thing to do is remove the front cover and valve cover, remove the old tensioner, install the new one with the plunger compressed and then activate the plunger. The instructions with my new tensioner don't fully jive with that though. I also have photos of the part I bought. It does have an oil galley hole so I am guessing it is the updated part. I should also add that I heard my new motor run before it was pulled at the yard and it started good with no noticeable noises. And I know what a bad one sounds like. So take a look at what I have and let me know if I am on the right track. Hopefully it starts to warm up a little and I can get back at this thing. Almost ready to pull the old motor and then will be ready to drop in the new one. Thanks.