I'll try that about turning the key on to see if the fuel pump will build up pressure. As you say it might take a couple of tries to build up enough pressure to start. I did check the fuel lines and do not have any fuel odors or leaks that I have experienced. I will have to wait until tomorrow for the fuel pressure to leak down enough overnight so that I get the no start condition. I'll post how that worked. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

OK so I go out there this morning and turn the key on. I do not hear the fuel pump cycling. I try it again, nothing. I tried to start the engine and it just cranked. I decided to go under the hood and check for a blown fuse or relay for the fuel pump. I find out it is relay #19. Turns out relay #18 is the same type of relay and it covers the rear hatch lock. So I swap relays and I turn the key. I now hear the fuel pump cycling and the engine started right up.
I'm not sure why the engine started using starter fluid, and kept running. I'm not sure why the engine had to sit overnight for this condition to show up. I'm still concerned about how quickly the pressure drops when I shut off the fuel pump but at this point in time I'm not going to worry about it. It seems to be fixed and working fine and I will stop by Autozone and pick up TWO $6.00 relays to keep one for a spare. Sometimes all you have to do is listen and I appreciate the tip about turning the key to "prime" the fuel lines. When I didn't hear the pump cycling I figured that I had an electrical issue and went to check either the relay or the fuse. Pretty basic and I feel like a fool for not thinking to check those things first. Thanks to everyone for all of the help. Problem SOLVED.

 

Awesome, does the rear hatch work? Was the relay just loose?

 

The rear hatch did not work when I first switched relays so I didn't think it was a bad connection. Bought a new relay and now everything works. Everyone needs to remember that if they ever get stranded with a no start condition and that they DO NOT hear the fuel pump cycling, all they have to do is switch #19 relay for #18. The car will start but you will not be able to use the rear hatch until you replace the relay.

 

Good to know! I’ll have to move my spare relays to the glovebox.

 

Well you probably still have the problem with the pressure bleeding down. Maybe all the extra abuse of the relay fried it. Probably a new development.

Have you ever had to work on a corroded fuel line like so many others have? If the insulation in the area of the exhaust pipe has been removed, that combined with the rapid loss of pressure my be creating a vapor lock. With a bad check valve, the vapor could be push all way back to the pump maybe.I remember seeing a diagram somewhere showing how that pump assembly is put together, just don’t remember the particulars.