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Clunking issue: Solved!

Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #31  
pitbull76's Avatar
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Joined: 11-20-2006
Posts: 931
From: Peoria, IL
Mine should be getting replaced as soon as the dealer gets them in stock. Mine started clunking within the last month and the dealer said it needed new end links and struts. I think the noise is just the end links, but if they want to give me struts too I'm fine with that
Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:24 PM
  #32  
moonsign's Avatar
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Joined: 09-20-2009
Posts: 1,058
From: Hayward, Ca.
Bought Moog sway bar end links to try and cure a rattle noise in front susp., mostly on right side front.
Drove over to Modesto[80miles] to buddies shop and we put HHR-SS up on rack and tugged, twisted, banged on, everything under the front end. Everything seemed tight, wheels off ground and wheels on the ground.
Installed Moog end links[20 mins], put SS on ground and test drive it. Changed nothing, noise still there.
Now I'm going to order sway bar bushing and change them out. Something is making a rattle at low speed over small bumps, and I'm determined to find it.
"Moon"
Old Sep 9, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #33  
Stryker's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-10-2009
Posts: 170
From: Durham
Originally Posted by moonsign
Bought Moog sway bar end links to try and cure a rattle noise in front susp., mostly on right side front.
Drove over to Modesto[80miles] to buddies shop and we put HHR-SS up on rack and tugged, twisted, banged on, everything under the front end. Everything seemed tight, wheels off ground and wheels on the ground.
Installed Moog end links[20 mins], put SS on ground and test drive it. Changed nothing, noise still there.
Now I'm going to order sway bar bushing and change them out. Something is making a rattle at low speed over small bumps, and I'm determined to find it.
"Moon"

I have the bushings but I haven't had a chance to change them out yet either. If you want to find out for definite you can try what I did. Just take the links off. If its something else then the noise will still be there. I have had mine off for about 2 weeks now and its as quiet as can be.

I am going to reinstall the end links and bushings at the same time when I have a chance, but at least its nice to know what the actual problem is.
Old Sep 10, 2010 | 01:11 PM
  #34  
dantesab's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: 05-18-2010
Posts: 20
From: michigan
Angry clunk

Well this is the latest stuff with my HHR. Put on my own end links and It corrested the problem of the clunk for 2 days it then came back same as before.I finally wrote a letter to GM (work for company so I know who to contact) and told them the problems I was having. They paid for my parts and the labor to put them on and told me to bring it to dealer and they would look at it.They put new struts on car and checked everything and said bring it back if it knocks again.Well drove car for 2 days and it was quiet as ever but knock is back AGAIN. Dealer and I think it is sway bar bushings but have to get it to knock all time for them to check it.I did notice it is worse when it is raining outside makes sence if it is bushings. Will let you know what happens next..
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #35  
Happy13178's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: 09-08-2010
Posts: 32
From: Toronto
I've had this clunking since I got the car, and have had everything check like 5 times now. Had stab links replaced, clunking is still there. At this point I'm just ignoring it, much as it pains me to do it. If my mechanic tells me that everything is checked and ok, I'll either spend a fortune replacing the whole front suspension or take his word for it. I trust the guy, so I let it go.
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #36  
whopper's Avatar
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Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,043
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
[QUOTE=Stryker;473114]Here are some images from someone who has replaced them

" I recently replaced my stock squeaky sway bar end links with MOOG #K750012 end links with zerk fittings. The new links are much quieter and have tighened up the feel of the steering."

Here's the stock end links, you'll need to jack up the front end and remove the wheel to get to this part. The green arrows point to the two bolts that will need to be removed. The outside one is easy to get to, the inside one is not too difficult to reach.

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If by chance the nut spins there is a small area on the inside face of the link where you can get a grip on the bolt. On the new end links this piece is a full size nut that is much easier to work with.

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I too installed the Moog units (available at Shucks auto parts in Lake Stevens WA for ~$80 - and wanted to comment on two things:
1: I was having a real problem removing one of the nuts, and ended up just twisting the rod off the ball - it was that badly worn (and rusty inside)
2: as the nuts can be a bear to get off as they are an interference fit on the threads to make them self-locking - use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut thru most of the nut on opposite sides (two cuts) - it makes the nuts MUCH easier to remove.

So far the clucking if gone. :)

Loved the pics - big thanks.

cheers
Old Sep 11, 2010 | 09:20 PM
  #37  
09 Silver Bullett's Avatar
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Joined: 01-24-2010
Posts: 472
From: MI
I think the blue wrench works the best!
Old Sep 12, 2010 | 12:50 AM
  #38  
Stryker's Avatar
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Joined: 09-10-2009
Posts: 170
From: Durham
I just held mine with some needle nose vice grips. Once you break the initial hold you can screw the rest of the nut off with your fingers. I didn't have any problems with either side.
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #39  
whopper's Avatar
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Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,043
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Originally Posted by Stryker
I just held mine with some needle nose vice grips. Once you break the initial hold you can screw the rest of the nut off with your fingers. I didn't have any problems with either side.
I tried the needle nose vice grips too, but the nuts were too hard to take off - the grips wouldn't hold tight enough. The threads were clean and I soaked them with penetrating oil without any luck to make them easier to remove. So cutting the nuts was the only option I had.

I did notice that the Moogs were an interference fit on the threads as well, so I made good use of an 18mm wrench to hold the stud and ball as the nut was tightened with another wrench.

I put a good 40 miles on the car since the link replacement - the clunking is GONE!!! Yea me!

And a big thanks to Stryker and the others for the information here on how-to's, pictures, and the part numbers for the Moog units. Nice stuff.
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #40  
jerrbear's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 04-16-2006
Posts: 278
From: london ontario canada
I only have 40 km on my 2006 and have had them replaced twice now. Think i'll go aftermarket next time. Once warranty runs out .....lol

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