Captain, I believe that we are stuck in a temporal causality loop.

 

You don't seem to want to check the master switch lock wire Not the same as master switch wire. You tested the switches with the lock button in both position, but did not check the signal that the button sends. That might be a reason for them not working.
After that you need to test continuity for every individual wire.

 

With the Lock Button not lite there is 12.35vdc all the time on the LR door switch DkBlu.
With the Orange light on , on the Lock Button there is 12.35vdc when the Drivers switch is activated in either direction on the LR switch DkBlu.

 

 

The dark blue on the LR switch should change depending on the position of the Master Lockout button. If it does not there is the problem. I don't know if the signal is Ground to Open or V to Open or G to V; I have a feeling that it is V to Ground. But it is a "signal" so the state has to change.

There is the chance that a previous owner had some security thing hooked up, They do make a thingy that rolls the windows up by remote. I have no idea how they hook up, but removing it could break wires; thus checking continuity on the signal wires

 

Did you read the thread link I posted.

 

I guess it is possible the RAP relay is the problem. I didn't think it worked that way.

the relay mounted on the BCM. and fuse #30 on the BCM.

 

From the other link Blue posted the RAP relay is on the back side of the BCM.
Also there are two fuses to check, a 2 and 30 amp.

Quote from Don, " Fuse #36 under the hood, also the window RetainedAccessoryPower fuse #17 in the BCM fuse box (pass side, console). Also, the ground under the driver seat. "

Quote from windsmith, "I've isolated the problem to the BCM, specifically the RAP relay. With the ignition on, I get no power to the 2A RAP power window fuse, nor the 30A power window fuse on the BCM, which are both fed by the RAP relay. I don't see the relay, so I'm guessing that it's on the back side of the module (driver side)"

Quote from windsmith (he has a 5 speed), "Found the problem.
One of my shifter cables popped loose when I put the car in reverse a couple of days ago. It popped back in, but apparently not before it dislodged the RAP relay from its socket. The shifter cables run directly underneath the RAP relay which is on the back side of the BCM. When the cable shifted, it knocked the RAP relay sideways; just enough to keep it from energizing."

Hope this helps.

 

The battery voltage to the rear windows comes from the master lockout switch The other power is for the LED. The power for the front windows comes from the batt+.

According to the diagnostic chart, I don't see a scenario where all 3 of the windows don't work. The front passenger window is pretty much independent and the driver window is totally. If the driver switch ground was bad it would affect driver and both rear.

 

pulled all the fuses, ohm check good
Power to fuse sockets
How do I get to the RAP relay to check it?
Checked and cleaned (because I was there) 2 grounds under the dash by drivers door pillar, and 2 under passanger seat.
Now the drivers window dosen't work either.
Back to square one.
How do I access the connector for the drivers door inside the dash/pillar ?