The RAP relay is on the backside of the BCM.
The wire conduit on the door plugs into the body.

If nothing works after cleaning the grounds under the seats those ground wires are suspect.

 

If I understand correctly, neither the RAP, nor the lockout switch is to blame. The RAP relay only connects directly to the front windows, and the lockout only controls the rear windows.

The right side windows ground under the passenger seat, the left side windows ground under the driver seat. Messing with the ground under the passenger seat should not cause the driver side window to quit working.

My car is unplugged right now, so I can't test. Does RAP allow the rear windows to operate from their individual switches? I'm guessing not. This is 2009-2011 and 2008 SS only.

I'm about out of ideas. What happens if the master switch is completely disconnected, do any of the individual switches work then?

 

Do I have to dissemble the BCM and remove it to access the RAP?

 

Here's that link Oldblue posted before. Read all of it. Especially post #12.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ws-quit-53631/

Just to give you an idea of how to access the RAP relay.

 

Pulled the BCM. RAP is secure. Put the BCM back together.
Ohmed out the wires from the driver's control to each switch, no issues found.
Pulled the drivers seat. Found the grounds . They look like they would when the car was built , just like the passenger side.
Fuse under the hood good. Two fuses in BCM good.
Have power at all fuses.
None of the window switches operate any window.

 

Could someone please tell me how to apply power and ground to the drivers control? Will that make all the windows work from there? If not how do I get them all to work?

 

Out of the box idea...

Have you checked to be sure the weatherstripping isn't stuck to the glass, preventing movement? I have seen this if the windows aren't cycled for months and the car's outside. Exactly the same symptoms. Tree pollen and crap gummed the rear windows on my Oldsmobile right up.

 

That is definitely out of the box with that.
He has said if he hot wires each window motor they work.

 

You said there is power and ground to ALL switches 6 or 7 pages back. The diagrams show how to do it. No, power to the driver will not necessarily power all the windows.

 

It sounds like the only thing you messed with, that would affect the driver window, is the fuses.