TiggersHHR

Greetings All, I have been reading a lot about warped rotors in the "Problem" section of the forum. I need a little helpful advice - My rotors originally warped at around 28,000 miles .
They were replaced with OEM rotors and the pads were switched to ceramic. No issues until the right hub bearing had to be replaced at around 43,500 miles .
I currently have around 51,500 miles on my HHR and it has started to develop a shimmy in the right side during braking .
I think the rotor has warped - but could it be something to do with the replaced hub???

Also, if the rotor is warped - which is the best type of replacement rotors to go with.
Plain Machined Surface, Slotted, Drilled, or Slotted and Drilled??
Which brand of replacement rotors would you suggest???

Thank you for your time,

Skatetheglobe

I was looking at these. Has anybody else bought them?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

hyperv6

Most rotors are the same. The issues are with other parts and their installation. Read up on the truth through all the MFG and not just the people posting on the web. If you google Warped rotor and insert the name of what ever car there is the same complaints and arguments but few truths on the real cause. Then you can understand why so may can not figure this out.

As for plain or drilled it is a matter of looks only. The drilled and slotted rotors are for looks only and do not add any cooling. At the owner of EBC told me directly. He stated they do not do anything to improve braking but make me money. They are cosmetic at best.

In the old days the organic pads needed to release gas and they really started to drill the rotors to cut the unsprung weight.

Note too the drilled rotors work less as a heat sink to remove the heat from the pads since they have less heat sink qualities to them. Nothing wrong to use them if you want the looks.

Read up on all the MFG web sites from Wilwood to Bendix and the many other companies and learn the real cause of the issues and you will solve your problems. Intallating of the pads and seating them in is a major cause causes a great deal of this and Rotor Thickness Variation causes most the rest of this. Ther entire industry has the truth to solving the issue but few accept the truth and repeat the issues over and over. Follow their instructions and their recomendations and you will solve the issue. They want you to like their product and buy it again.

Just buy a good name brand solid rotor and pad then follow the instructions on how to properly check the hubs and seat in the pads would be the best thing you can do.

You don't have to spend a lot of money to solve the issues at hand.

The run out of the hub bearings need to be less than .002. I suspect the hub issues may have cause most of your issues. As the rotor wobbles it makes random and uneven contat with the pads and will cause the rotor to wear in a uneven patter similar to warp but the thickness is varied not the shape. This is one of the reasons they are confused for warping. This is why in a lath they will make random contact.

Todays hub bearings are not as good as the old bearings in the past and the hubs are not all good quality. THe real qaulity issue is the hub.

Note most of these issues started when most car companies went to the sealed hubs with the ball bearings. They fail so much more often then the old taper rollers we used to use. The Ball Bearings because they have less rolling resistance and get better MPG vs the less efficent tapers. But then the quality comes into play. You can damage them by curbing them or even a out of round of balance tire. This will start them to fail and cause the brake issue. Once the damage is started it will continue to get worse.

The other issues is material left on the rotor surface when they are not bedded or seated. It creates a sticky spot on the rotor and will grab. This creates the judder of the brakes. Few people with new cars or replaced brakes seat them in and all usally complain abot the issues. Even the dealer will not usally seat them nor tell you how to drive the, when they are new. The issues later show up and by then the mechanic failure to seat them is not considered to be the issue.

Don't just take mine or anyone elses claims but read the MFG and other creditable web tech info as it is there for a reason. They want the best service out their product and teach the public how to use it properly.

All I can say is I used to have issues till I learned the truth. I used to believe many of the web claims and just repeated the same issues. Now with what I learned the brake issues are gone. I am not easy on brakes and i have yet to have the issue come back since I changed the way I did a few things.